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SouthGate Turns Traditional Korean Food on Its Head (in a Good Way)

SouthGate
www.southgatephilly.com
1801 Lombard Street
215-560-8443

My earliest memory of eating in a Korean barbeque restaurant hails all the way back to 1992, in Pentagon City, Virginia, just outside of Washington, D.C. Each table had a built-in grill on which patrons cooked marinated, thinly sliced, tender beef. Numerous tasty vegetable sides calmed the palate. The food was so delicious that one hardly even noticed the bland, conservative décor. You had to wonder, however: am I eating in the lobby of an office tower, or a restaurant?

Happily, the Korean cuisine-inspired gastropub SouthGate (1801 Lombard Street) boasts both a modern, hip atmosphere and an inventive menu. The long and narrow space that once housed Tangier bar and restaurant has been transformed: white and gray tiles cover the walls facing the bar, and muted, soft lighting lends a warm glow. The energy is upbeat and young without feeling pretentiously exclusive or manic.  Although many fried foods are served, you do not leave with your clothes redolent of oily smoke. Superb ventilation and careful design renders you unaware that a mere 25 feet away, the city’s best chicken wings are bubbling merrily away.

Oh, the chicken wings! We ordered a plate with the sweet and spicy gochujang sauce. “KFC,” a.k.a. Korean Fried Chicken, is double-fried for extra crunch. The meat inside the delectable exterior remained juicy. The husband remarked that he prefers his wings “dry,” but whatever. Who says that? In a word, he is wrong. I have sampled many, many wings in Philly, and these are simply the best. Also, if you are a devotee of the fermented, spicy cabbage side that is kimchi, SouthGate makes their own; order a side of it to complement the wings.

Not content to sample only one fried dish, we also ordered the rice and sweet corn arancini (“Koreancini”) that were accompanied by a roasted grape tomato dipping sauce.  Again, these were not greasy at all and quite tasty.

To wash it all down, I ordered two red sangria cocktails in rapid succession to assess the consistency of the quality and also to ensure that the second drink would be as refreshing and adequately boozy as the first. I am admittedly a lightweight, so after two drinks I was pleasantly buzzed and filled with good cheer, but not unsteady on my feet. Fuki plum wine added a welcome twist, and I note that the bartender did not weigh the concoction down with excessive chunks of fruit. The husband drank his usual fine red wine, and SouthGate also offers a decent selection of Asian beers.

After the fried feast, our main courses promptly arrived. Husband was presented with an impressive and ample rice bowl piled high with marinated beef, assorted vegetables, and gochujang sauce in a hot stone pot. Bibimbap is a traditional dish that you will find at many Korean restaurants, but my dining partner claimed that it was one of the better versions he has tried.

I opted for the barbeque beef tacos and a shredded kale salad tossed in a creamy, sesame dressing. Honestly, the sirloin strips were slightly chewy and dry. Did you ever notice that it is hard to impress a date with a big piece of hard-to-chew meat hanging out of your mouth? Well, it is. Luckily, I was not trying to favorably impress my husband, but still. The mini flour tortillas were, like most of their ilk, rather gummy.  Nevertheless, the sauce was good, and if you like cilantro, there was a sprig or two in each taco. The kale salad was cooling and made me feel healthy after the fried feast.

The staff, owner, and waiters are all attentive and friendly. Seating turnover is quick. Many diners simply enjoy a couple of drinks at the bar and a small plate before heading out to see what else the evening has to offer. Lingering over dessert, then, does not really feel like an option.

Besides the perfect wings, the best part about SouthGate is that they give diners the option of reserving a table AND paying the bill all in one blow. Just input your credit card information while you reserve; enjoy your meal; briefly review your receipt; and then toss your scarf jauntily over your shoulder as you depart in style.


On a sad note, chef Clara Park, who helped launch the restaurant this past summer, will be moving on soon. It is unknown how or if the restaurant will be affected, but hopefully the unparalleled chicken wings will endure.
Po

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